Four days have passed since I last shared anything here. As I recount those days, let me start with the most distant among them.
A Morning in Amsterdam
Rainy and gray, cool and brisk—this was the setting of our morning in Amsterdam. Outside the Princess Hostel, bicycles zipped past in endless streams, carrying commuters on their way to work. Our pace was more leisurely. Seeking breakfast, we wandered into the old part of town. A cozy little café called Uncommon provided a much-needed caffeine boost.
Crossing one of Amsterdam’s iconic old bridges and following a canal lined with tarped boats waiting out the winter, we pressed on toward the promise of Dutch pancakes. Our route took us past the Anne Frank House, where we paused to reflect on its profound history. Though we hadn’t secured reservations to visit the museum, the juxtaposition of its modern architecture against the old brick house sparked contemplation.
Breakfast at The Pancake Bakery was every bit as indulgent as we’d hoped. Dinner plate-sized pancakes filled with bacon, Gouda cheese, and mushrooms satisfied our appetites, while fluffy poffertjes dipped in butter and powdered sugar made for a sweet finish.
Rotterdam: A City Reborn
With the rest of the day ahead, we set out for Hamburg, stopping in Rotterdam along the way. A marvel of modern Dutch design, Rotterdam’s skyline reflects its post-war rebuilding. Larger rivers and bridges replaced the quaint canals of Amsterdam, marking the city as a bustling port hub.
Exploring downtown, we attempted to visit the tallest building in the city but found it closed. Undeterred, we ventured to the highest parking garage in the building, where decent views were hampered by iron grates. By then, my poor choice of footwear had left my feet aching, so of course, we descended by stairs instead of an elevator.
As we wandered Rotterdam, we crossed impressive bridges and marveled at the famed cube houses designed by a renowned architect. Perched on their corners, these unique structures create fascinating floor plans on each level. Nearby, the International Chess Piece Museum claimed the largest collection of chess pieces in the world. Too frugal to pay admission, we admired the three-way chessboard displayed outside instead.
Osnabrück and Missed Opportunities
Our route to Hamburg passed through Osnabrück, home to the Volkswagen factory where my 1987 Volkswagen Scirocco was built. As a long-time owner, I proposed a detour to visit the factory and museum. Although our accommodations for the night were lovely, our luck at the factory was not. Tours were only available by reservation on select days, and it was Monday. A friendly security guard gave me a thumbs-up for owning a Scirocco but couldn’t grant us entry.
Hannover: A Glimpse of History
In Hannover, we admired the city’s restored majesty, starting with the grand town hall. Maps displayed how the city evolved from its 1600s layout to its rebuilding after WWII. We also visited a bombed-out church, where only the steeple and outer walls remain. Unfortunately, plans to visit nearby gardens were cut short as we rushed to catch our train.
Onward to Hamburg
A few train switches later, we reached the outskirts of Hamburg and settled in at Johannes’s grandmother’s house. Dinner featured an array of delicacies, with the highlight being Mett—a dish far more delicious than its description suggests.
With these stops behind us, our main journey is just beginning.